Learning to ruffle on my Brother 1034D Serger

I’ve been sewing for a few years now, and I’ve tried pretty much every method of making ruffles out there I think!  Over time I’ve settled on just doing the ruffles by hand, but recently with ALL of the ruffling I’ve been doing I got a little desperate.  A friend of mine asked me why I didn’t use my serger, and really the only reason I could give was that I wanted to have plenty of control.  Well, I decided to give it a go, and after some pointers from her (she has a different serger than I do, so some of it was guesswork and trial and error!), I finally figured it out!  I decided I’d do a little “lesson” here for ya’ll today, since my serger is definitely one of the more commonly used ones out there.  Hopefully this will help someone!

Brother 1034D Serger

This is my serger.  A Brother 1034D.  I LOVE this serger.  It’s VERY reasonably priced and I definitely make it work for it’s dinner.  I had a Singer before, and it tended to hate the bulkier seams that come with ruffles, bias tape, etc. This one goes through them like butter!

Regular serger settings

This is what my serger settings normally are for a standard seam finishing.  I pretty much stick with what they came set at from the factory!  For ruffling though, you’ll want to change them to this:

Ruffle serger settings

If you can’t tell what changed, the little lever on the far right is pushed all the way to the top, and that middle dial is turned all the way to the right as well.  When that is done, and you leave your tension dials set at the regular settings (mine is set at 4 all the way across), you get a ruffle that looks like this:

First ruffle

It’s not gathered very much huh?  This is great for some things, but I personally tend to like things a bit more ruffled!  So I played around with the settings and found that if I set the tension dials like this:

Then you end up with a ruffle like this:

Much better!  I still make some adjustments by hand if something doesn’t gather quite enough but this is saving me SO much time!  I hope I’ve explained it well, and that someone gets brave enough to try it themselves now!  If you have any questions, please comment and I’ll answer as best as I can!

 

DIY Fabric Handprint Christmas Tree-Tutorial

handprint christmas tree tutorial final

Ok, so yesterday you got to see the finished product, today I’m going to show you how to make it!  Hopefully this makes sense to you, if you have ANY questions, please ask in the comments and I’ll be sure to answer.  This uses mostly stuff any good fabric hoarder, er, sewer-should have on hand.  Now, onward to how to make it!

Materials:

1 artists canvas (mine measures approximately 24″ x 17″, but depending on the size/number of your kids you may need bigger or smaller)

1 yard of background fabric

1 yard of fabric for tree (mine is an Amy Butler print, from the Daisy Chain line I think?)

1/4 yd. white fabric for the “snow” base

Scrap of fabric for the tree trunk

Heat N Bond Ultra (the heavy duty, not the light version)

Hot glue gun and glue sticks

Package of fake snow fabric

Items to decorate your tree

Instructions:

First, gather up all your materials.  I found this awesome blue tone on tone fabric in my stash that looks like the sky and decided it was perfect for the background.  Lay it out flat right side down on an area big enough to accommodate your canvas as well as giving you some area to work.  For me that was the floor.  I used a spray adhesive on the front of the canvas thinking that would help anchor it while I glued, but I don’t think that’s really necessary.

handprint christmas tree tutorial #1

Next, you’re going to attach the fabric to the canvas by hot gluing in sections.  I made sure the hot glue was on the side of the wood since I wasn’t sure how well it would stay adhered to the canvas itself.  Make sure you pull the fabric pretty taut in this step so you end up with a nice background on which to put your tree.

handprint christmas tree tutorial #2For the corners, I did a mitered look with mine, but I think as long as they’re folded smoothly they should be fine.  This is the back after all, so don’t get too stressed about it.

handprint christmas tree tutorial #3Now, flip it over and hopefully your fabric is nice and smooth, not like mine which was all bubbly (because of the spray adhesive).  Although I kind of liked the effect once the tree was on the canvas, smooth probably really is nicer looking.

handprint christmas tree tutorial #4Next up, apply your Heat N Bond according to package directions to all of your fabric pieces.  Set all pieces except the white fabric aside for right now.  With your white fabric, cut different shapes out to create “snow dunes” and lay them out on your canvas to decide placement.  Then remove the paper and making sure the steam is off on your iron, adhere them in place.  Be gentle so you don’t push through the canvas, but make sure to get them on well.  (Do not even look at the mess under my iron board okay?  I need to vacuum badly!)

handprint christmas tree tutorial #5

Next up take the scrap of fabric for the tree trunk, and adhere it on top of the “snow”.

handprint christmas tree tutorial #8Set aside your canvas for the next little while so we can work on the handprints.  Now, this tree can be made with handprints from any number of children.  I have 5, so my instructions are based on that, but please, don’t go having a baby just so you can make the tree exactly like mine okay?  Now that your kids have been appropriately bribed and are willing to participate (oh wait, just mine? Ok!), trace their hands on a piece of cardboard.  There are only 4 here, that’s because the 5th one wasn’t appropriately bribed yet when I took this picture lol.

handprint christmas tree tutorial #6Cut those all out, and then trace onto the PAPER side of your Christmas tree fabric (that you’ve already applied the heat n bond to).  I traced 5 of each kid, but I did have extras of the smaller kids’ hands toward the top of the tree.  This number will vary based on how many kids, how big their hands are, etc.  So, start with 4 or 5, and do more if you need to.  Now, if you only have 1 or 2 kids, you’ll obviously need more.  I labeled each one with whose handprint it was so I’d use them in the right order on the next step.

handprint christmas tree tutorial #7Once you have all the handprints traced and cut out, it’s time to go back to our canvas.  I started with my oldest sons handprints and gave each kid a row on the tree.  Place them fingers down, overlapping slightly so you can see the “leaves” of the tree taking effect.  Once you’ve decided on the right layout of your first row, iron them down-again being careful not to push through the canvas.

handprint christmas tree tutorial #9Now, going row by row, repeat the above steps until you have yourself a tree, like this:

handprint christmas tree tutorial #10At this point, I originally thought I was done, but then I said “wow, that poor tree looks a little..nekkid.”  So I had to change things up, and this is the point where your own creativity will really get to take flight, it’s time to decorate the tree!  First-the star.  I auditioned a few different things, but finally settled on this golden yellow fabric yo yo for mine:

handprint christmas tree tutorial #11That was better, but still not done.  I wasn’t happy AT ALL with the way my “snow” turned out, so off to the dollar store I went. I picked up a few little things I wanted to try.  I found a package of that fake snow “fabric” type stuff (reminds you of a cottonball with glitter in it..do you know what I’m talking about?), and thought that would be perfect to add some texture to the bottom.  And the bows where the family voted winner for on tree decorations.  I attached all of the decorations, and the fake snow, with hot glue.  For the snow, I just scrunched it up a little bit and glued different spots to make sure it all stayed well.  Don’t get too heavy handed with the decorating, remember, your childrens handprints are the star of this show, so they need to be seen!  Here’s our final product:

handprint christmas tree finalI can’t wait to give this to my parents, I really hope they like it!  I think this is a perfect gift for grandparents, and I’m even thinking about doing a new one every year so they get an “as they grow” kind of effect going.  There’s still plenty of time to get one of these done before Christmas, and if you make one I’d LOVE to see pictures posted in the Flickr pool.  If you have any questions, ask away!  And enjoy!

Tutorial: Upcycle your kids favorite shirt

This is a quick and simple tutorial, great for even a very beginner seamstress to do! This came about because my sons very very favorite Thomas the Tank Engine tshirt had gotten too small and quite ratty.  This is a way to give it new life!

Materials:

Old ratty tshirt that  you’re child has to be bribed to take off

New blank tshirt in a size they can grow into

Heat N Bond or Heat N Bond Lite

Sewing machine/scissors, etc.

Instructions:

First start off with the old ratty tshirt, as evidenced here:

upcycled kids tshirt tutorial #1

Cut out whatever motif makes it so special to create what will become a patch in essence. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but try and get as smooth of a cut as you can.  This shirt had a really big picture on it, so I had to be careful when I cut.  Feel free to dump the rest of the old tshirt in the trash can, hide the pieces if necessary! HA!

upcycled kids tshirt tutorial #2Next, take your cut out piece, and iron a piece of heat n bond on the back.  You can either trace your shape onto it first and cut it out then line up and iron; or using an applique pressing sheet just press the patch onto a piece of heat n bond slightly larger, then trim.

upcycled kids shirt #3Take your patch and peel off the paper backing, then place it on the new blank tshirt wherever you want it.  Again, this was a large piece, so centering it as it was on the original shirt was the best way to keep little man happy.  When you have it in place, use your iron to bond it in place.

upcycled kids tshirt tutorial #4Now, this is a kids item, and I’m all about making things last as long as possible, so we’re also going to stitch this down (over time the heat n bond will lose it’s “stickiness” and come unglued).  I used invisible thread for this one, but using matching or even contrasting thread is fine, depending on the look you’re going for.

upcycled kids tshirt tutorial #5Use a medium width zig zag stitch and go all the way around your patch to secure it..being sure to back stitch at the beginning and end of your stitching line.

upcycled kids tshirt tutorial #6At this point, you can cover the inside with a cover stitch material or you can leave it as is.  I usually cover all things like this, but Wyatt was not interested in waiting.  So go ahead and give them their brand spankin’ new shirt!  Then try to get some pictures to show how happy they are with the finished product and get some like this:

Or this:

Or this:

Then you give up and wait till laundry day, grab a picture and then put it into the Froggy Girl Designs Flickr Pool!

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask away!  I hope this has helped inspire!

Tutorial: Foldover Elastic (FOE) bound Baby Crib Sheet

In case you can’t tell, I’ve become quite the fan of FOE over the last little while. I’ve used it over the last 6 months or so for my cloth diaper covers, and over time have ventured out into other uses. Today I’m bringing you a tutorial for one of my favorite ways to use this versatile little notion. This is kind of picture heavy, as I’m a visual learner and I always like lots of pictures on tutorials, it’s like someone is right there holding my hand as I go! The pictures aren’t fantastic as it was late while I was doing this and my sewing room is rather dark, but hopefully they’re good enough for you to see what I’m doing.

First, if you aren’t familiar with FOE, it is a soft knit elastic with a slight depression down the center (you can see in the picture below) to enable it fold over cleanly while maintaining stretch. Think of it as the bias tape of the elastic world. It takes a little practice to get it to look really good (and I should mention now that the stitching in this tutorial is NOT an example of looking really good!), but it’s worth it!


Now lets get started, gather your materials:

  • 68″ of flannel cut the entire width of the fabric leaving selvedges intact (or really, you could use a knit or cotton woven as well, but it needs to be cut to an appx. 45″ width NOT length)
  • 5-6 yards of FOE (this will vary a bit depending on the amount of stretch, I will list some sources at the end)
  • Your normal notions-rotary cutter or scissors, ruler, and a marking utensil, I use tailors chalk on these.

Step 1: On each corner of your fabric, measure a square 8″ x 8″ and mark with chalk.


Step 2: Using your rotary cutter or scissors, cut out the squares. It should then look like this:


Step 3: Take the first corner of your fabric and fold right sides together (as shown below) and serge or sew from the edge to the V of the fabric. If you don’t have a serger, finish the edges with a zig zag stitch to help with fraying issues in the wash. I personally serge the seams and THEN sew for durability, but I might have a few perfectionist tendencies lol.

Step 4: Pick out your FOE-there are TONS of colors available, and more and more prints all the time. I went with plain white for purposes of this tutorial so I could use a contrasting thread to show you what I’m doing. You want to start your FOE on one of the straight edges-fold the FOE in half on the edge of the fabric, sandwiching the fabric in between and making sure it’s all the way to the inside. Use a few tack down stitches to secure the end, stopping with your needle down.


Step 5: Now this is where it gets a bit hard to explain (and takes practice to get everything to go the way you want it to). Move your stitch to a wide zig zag or 3-step zig zag (I’m using a 3 step in the pictures). With your needle down, you want to put your finger about an inch or so back from your presser foot, grab the FOE (not the fabric, just the FOE) and stretch it as much as you can. I usually pull the fabric behind the presser foot as well, not yanking it through the machine, just holding it taut to ensure the stretch is maintained as I stitch. You have to reposition your hands frequently to keep the FOE stretched and the fabric situated correctly in between (which can result in some hand cramping-fair warning!), but after a few inches you’ll see the gathers forming behind the presser foot as you let the FOE go on that side.


Step 6: When you get to the end, cut your FOE off so it overlaps the start a bit, finish stitching to the edge and remove from the machine. Turn so the cut edge is perpindicular under your presser foot, and put your machine on a thinner tight regular zig zag stitch. Stitch over the exposed edge (this is mostly cosmetic as FOE doesn’t really fray much). As you can see, I got a little sloppy on this one, but I had a 2 yr old and a 1 yr old helping me at this point.


Step 7: Put your new crib sheet on your babies crib and enjoy the feeling of knowing they’re sleeping on a sheet mama made with love (and MUCH cheaper than buying a single sheet at Toys R Us!). This is not the sheet I made during this tutorial obviously, but it IS one I made using this method!

I hope my instructions were clear, if you have any questions, please feel free to ask away and I will answer them for you! I’d love to see pictures of your creations, please post them to the Froggy Girl Designs Tutorials flickr group. Enjoy!

Sources for FOE (if you know of another please let me know and I’ll add it!):

  • FOE Your Diaper
  • This End Up Yahoogroup (this is where I personally get all of mine, it’s a group buy, but worth the wait!)
  • Sewzanne’s (it looks like she only carries 5/8″, but that would work although it might be more difficult to wrangle)

FOE (foldover elastic) Bound Ironing Board Cover


Here at the new house, my sewing room is…not big. I’m SO blessed to even have a room for all my stuff, that I dare not complain. There is no space to put up my full sized ironing board and leave it (and other areas of the house!) easily accessible, so I’m using the small table top board that I already had. The downfall of that is that the cover it came with was 1) UGLY and 2) WAY too big. I don’t know why, but it was like 10″ too long for the board and a good 4″ too wide.

So, I got crafty! I LOVE foldover elastic for tons of applications. I originally started using it simply for diaper covers as intended, but quickly came to find so many other uses for it! Probably my favorite use for it other than diapers, is crib sheets. I’ve made tons of crib sheets for Wyatt and Ree out of super cute flannels with FOE around the bottom.
I was totally winging this, and as you can see it’s not perfect, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. The major problem area is the curve at the front, I need to work on that part so it looks nicer and fits a little better. Would anyone like to see a tutorial on this? I’d be happy to write one up if ya’ll want!